NL
Getting an overcab motorhome ready for winter prevents serious damage caused by frost, damp and long periods of standing still. A neglected motorhome can leave you in spring with burst pipes, mould in the overcab and dead batteries. With thorough preparation you avoid unexpected repairs. As soon as the first spring sunshine appears, you can head straight back onto the road.
Why you prepare an overcab motorhome differently for winter storage
An overcab motorhome has an extra sleeping area above the cab. This section needs special attention when you are getting it ready for winter. Moisture easily accumulates in the overcab because ventilation is limited, especially if you close windows and cupboards. Textiles, mattresses and curtains attract moisture and become a breeding ground for mould. Pipes from the water system run through or along the overcab. When water in them freezes, it causes the pipes to crack.
Many motorhome owners choose an overcab model because of the space and the extra bed. During the winter months this area needs extra maintenance. That way you prevent damage. Insulation, ventilation and careful checks of the water system keep the overcab in top condition.
‘ Without this ventilation, condensation forms – and that leads to mould. ’
Cleaning out and clearing out for the winter break
Start with a thorough clean inside and out. Wash the exterior to remove dirt, resin and bird droppings. These residues attack the paintwork and cause corrosion while the vehicle is in storage. Clean the interior, including kitchen, bathroom and fridge, with a mild solution. Dry everything carefully to avoid moisture build-up.
Remove all food, textiles and cushions from the motorhome. Stand the mattresses upright against the wall to improve air circulation. This applies especially to the mattress in the overcab. Leave cupboard doors, fridge door and rooflights slightly open. Open roller blinds and slide insect screens up. Without this ventilation, condensation forms – and that leads to mould.
Fully protecting the water system against frost
Freezing water in pipes, tanks and the boiler is the main cause of winter damage to motorhomes. Empty the fresh water tank, waste water tank and all pipes completely. Briefly open taps and switch on the water pump to remove residual water. Don’t forget the boiler; many overcab motorhomes have a Truma boiler with a separate drain valve. In practice, this valve is often forgotten.
Clean the chemical toilet and its tanks thoroughly. Leave drain valves open so they can empty completely. Use compressed air to blow out the pipes, or use special motorhome antifreeze. Never use car antifreeze; this will damage the drinking water system. Pay extra attention to the pipes around the overcab. These run through or along the cab area.
Switching off gas, power and electronics
Disconnect the gas bottles, close the main valve and store the bottles outside the motorhome. Some storage locations require gas bottles to be removed. Take the starter battery and leisure battery out of the motorhome and connect them at home to a trickle charger. This prevents them from running flat and extends their service life. Remove batteries from all devices such as remote controls and clocks.
Switch off all electrical equipment. Check that all lights, the fridge and the heating are completely off. This reduces the risk of power loss during the winter months.
‘ A dehumidifier box can actually have the opposite effect. ’
Ventilation and damp control in the overcab
Ventilation is the best weapon against mould. Put windows, doors and rooflights on the latch. If you close your windows completely, you might be tempted to use moisture absorbers. We advise against this. With sufficient ventilation a dehumidifier box is unnecessary. A dehumidifier box can actually have the opposite effect. Well-ventilated air prevents moisture from building up.
In the overcab, make sure air can circulate under the bed by standing the mattress upright. Move cushions to the side and leave cupboard doors open. Treat door and window seals with silicone spray. This is a suitable lubricant and prevents the rubber from drying out and cracking.
Preparing the exterior for storage
Fill the fuel tank completely to prevent condensation in the tank. Increase the tyre pressure by 0.2 bar. This reduces flat spots during long periods of standing still. Check the spare wheel and increase the pressure there as well. Lift the windscreen wipers off the glass to prevent them from deforming.
Release the handbrake and secure the motorhome with chocks or a levelling system. A handbrake that is left on can freeze or become damaged. Retract the steadies to prevent damage. Use a breathable motorhome cover with sufficient ventilation. A non-breathable cover causes moisture build-up. Take photos of the condition of the motorhome for any potential insurance claims.
Can you go winter camping with an overcab motorhome in the Netherlands?
An overcab motorhome is suitable for winter camping in the Netherlands. The motorhome has heated double floors, a powerful heater and good insulation. The low season offers peace and lower campsite fees. Do keep an eye on the details though. Not all campsites are open in winter. Check the campsite’s winter facilities in advance, such as heated sanitary blocks and electric hook-ups.
Fill the water system with motorhome antifreeze for extra protection against unexpected frost. Insulate windows with thermal mats or special insulation film to reduce heat loss. Keep the overcab warm by running the heater regularly and ensuring air can circulate. Winter camping requires more preparation, but it offers a unique experience in Dutch nature.
‘ Water ingress through damaged sealant joints causes unnoticed damage. ’
Extra tips for long-term storage
Remove unnecessary items from the motorhome. Less weight means lower fuel consumption in the new season. Check that your insurance is up to date. Consider booking a small service. That way you put the motorhome into storage with peace of mind. Change the oil. Check the windscreen washer fluid. Inspect the sealant joints around the roof.
If you have a permanent pitch on a campsite, it is advisable to check the roof more often. Water ingress through damaged sealant joints causes unnoticed damage. Fit a wheel clamp as extra protection against theft. Many owners forget to drain the boiler. This leads to unpleasant surprises in spring. Empty tanks and sufficient ventilation are the two most important steps. That’s how you prevent springtime damage.
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Frequently asked questions
Give the motorhome a thorough clean inside and out, remove all food and textiles and stand mattresses and cushions upright in the overcab for better ventilation. Drain the entire water system (fresh water, waste water and toilet tanks, boiler and pipes) and, if necessary, blow out the pipes or use special motorhome antifreeze. Disconnect the gas bottles, switch off the power completely, remove the batteries and keep them on a trickle charger, and ensure good ventilation by leaving windows and doors slightly open or, if that’s not possible, by placing moisture absorbers. Prepare the exterior by filling the fuel tank, slightly increasing the tyre pressure, taking the weight off the wheels with steadies and, if you wish, using a breathable motorhome cover.
Protect the entire water system against frost by completely emptying the fresh water tank, boiler, waste water tank, pipes and chemical toilet and leaving all drain valves open. Put all taps in the mid-position (hot/cold) and briefly run the pump so that residual water disappears; if necessary, blow out the pipes with compressed air or special motorhome antifreeze (never car antifreeze). Don’t forget any pipes running towards the cab or overcab and let everything dry thoroughly to prevent damage and mould. Ideally store the motorhome under cover or with a breathable cover to limit temperature fluctuations and condensation.
You will need: cleaning products (mild all-purpose cleaner, sponge, soft brush, vacuum cleaner, cloths) and drying materials (towels, possibly a dehumidifier or moisture absorber). For the water system: buckets, hoses, possibly a compressed-air gun or motorhome antifreeze to blow through or protect pipes and boiler. For gas and electricity: open-ended or adjustable spanners for the gas bottles, a battery charger/trickle charger and possibly a screwdriver to disconnect the batteries. For the exterior: tyre pressure gauge/pump, wheel chocks/levellers, possibly a breathable motorhome cover and some silicone spray or rubber grease for seals and gaskets.
Fully charge the leisure and starter batteries, disconnect them or connect them to a trickle charger, and prevent deep discharge by switching off all consumers. Increase tyre pressure by about 0.2 bar, if possible place the motorhome on levellers or steadies and move it occasionally to prevent ‘square’ tyres. Close the gas bottles, disconnect them and preferably store them outside the motorhome, in line with the storage provider’s requirements. Check hoses, pressure regulator and connections for damage before storage and again when putting the vehicle back into use in spring.
The key checkpoints are: completely emptying and protecting all water tanks, pipes, boiler and toilet against frost, and disconnecting and maintaining gas bottles and (leisure) batteries. In addition, make sure you carry out a thorough clean inside and out, remove food and textiles, and ventilate well, especially in the overcab (mattresses upright, cupboards and fridge slightly open). Check the tyres, fuel tank (full), rubber seals and windscreen wipers, and consider using a breathable cover during storage. Finally, leave drain valves open and check that all frost protection devices (such as the boiler drain) have been activated correctly.
